Osteria Marco

Larimer Square is one of Denver’s top attractions: it is exciting, expensive, and crowded (like a theme park, only for adults). The street is almost always buzzing with a constant flow of families, foodies, and hipsters. There’s a million things to look at, and good smells emanate from the buildings packed tightly into this historic district. Understandably, the restaurant competition is fierce, and many of the chefs are worthy of name dropping. To decide where is eat is like picking a ride at Disney Land: exciting and extremely difficult.

Don’t be persuaded by the big signs and bright lights of other establishments. Follow the iron pig to Osteria Marco, newest member to the family of Frank Bonanno restaurants. You will then be led down into the cavernous dining room. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, your eyes will take a full minute to adjust to the dark and cozy basement. Once things come into focus, the beautifully polished wooden bar takes center stage, surrounded by tall racks of Italian wines. Even on a slow afternoon, the hustle and bustle of the chatty diners, attentive servers, and soulful music give the restaurant character that can't be imitated.

The paper menu fits Osteria Marco's unpretentious attitude. No frilly descriptions adorn the house crafted meats, cheeses, and antipasti, which could be intimidating to a less experienced diner. On the same note, the food arrives with little embellishment, only a drizzle of green olive oil, or flecks of freshly ground black pepper. For the same reason a great peanut butter and jelly sandwich has only three ingredients, the honest fare at Osteria Marco speaks for itself.

Creamy goat cheese is slathered on warm bruschetta, topped with earthy mushrooms halves and luscious olive oil ($6). The rotisserie chicken panini ($10) is filled generously with morsels of tender chicken and grilled long for the provolone cheese to become gooey, and the red pepper spread to seep through the crusty bread. A substantial salad of pesto-coated shrimp, arugula, ceci beans, and warm flatbread ($12) doesn’t let the salad eater feel left out of the party.

While desserts are not as transcendent as the buttery house-made Burrata cheese, they round out the meal nicely. The uncomplicated vanilla semifreddo is served in a pool of strawberry sauce and sprinkled with candied toasted almond bits that offer needed contrast to the frozen cream.

When it is time to leave, climbing out of the grotto into the carnival of activity on the street can be a little shocking. Nevertheless, the euphoria of a satisfying meal at Osteria Marco doesn’t wear off, and like a kid coming down from a sugar high, leaves you spoiled for the next couple days.

Osteria Marco
Italian│1453 Larimer Square, 303-534-5855│$3-$21│Monday-Thursday& Sunday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; all credit cards.

Front Burner: Great atmosphere and simple food made in time honored, traditional ways.
Back Burner: Unlikely/expensive parking coupled with crowds of snobby hipsters can make an otherwise relaxing experience stressful.