Bistro Vendome

Walking along the Champs Élysées in Paris and the 16th Street Mall in Denver aren’t exactly comparable. Yes, they are both streets filled with tourists, but the similarities end there. The Champs Élysées is a beautiful avenue crowned with the Arc de Triomphe, and dotted with bistros, cafés, and shops that would make any Francophile swoon. The 16th Street Mall is a lengthy strip traversed by free shuttle busses and dotted with neon painted flower pots.

One Saturday morning, after a lengthy search for a lunch spot downtown, my friends and I found a gem in a sea of cubic zirconia. Bistro Vendome is tucked away in the historical Sussex building, off the beaten path of Larimer Square. The red awnings and wicker chairs lining the sidewalk were the first hints that we had stumbled upon something good, something familiar.

A friendly server moving a table inside the restaurant convinced us to come try brunch. We obliged, and upon entering, were pleased to find that the only hint that we were still in Denver was the writing on the mirrors in English, not French. The bistro had a small, almost cramped feeling. Not claustrophobic, scary small, just packed and cozy. The sunny yellow walls and gauzy curtains made the light pleasant even on an overcast day, as did our cheerful server.

She recommended Croque Madame, Pain Perdu, Omelet, and Croissant with Chicken Salad. Just about everything on the brief brunch menu. The small tables and casual attitude of Bistro Vendome are perfect for catching up with old buddies, after all, the restaurant's saying is "Rendezvous des amis" It would be wise to take that advice, and bring a few friends to chat with as service (in the classic French way) can be a little slow.

The Pain Perdu aux Amandes ($9.50) was a deliciously unexpected update on French toast. Like an oversized beignet, the tender brioche was deep fried and unapologetically crispy. It was served with a brûléed banana, a dulce de leche sauce, and toasted almonds.

The Croque Monsieur ($9.00), a bistro classic, was satisfactory. The thick cut bread was stuffed with ham, cheese, and pasty béchamel sauce. Usually the sandwich is pan fried, ensuring crispy bread with a gooey filling, but this one was rather soggy. The parsley covered pommes frites were also bizarrely sweet. We did nibble on them until there were none left, dipping them in the petite ramekin of mayonnaise.

The real disappointment was the Quiche ($8.00). Yes, it was filled with black truffles, smoked ham, and wild mushrooms as described on the menu. Its crust was perfectly buttery and flaky, a lovely counterpart to the silken eggy custard. But the entire slice of quiche could have only satisfied a small child or someone who recently underwent a stomach stapling procedure. It was almost comical! How Bistro Vendome manages to charge over $5.00 for a three bite quiche is beyond me. It was tasty though, I just wanted a few more bites.

The dinner menu sounds delicious, and I will definitely be back to try it. But the real appeal of Bistro Vendome isn’t just the food, it’s the warm atmosphere, welcoming service, and French traditions. Next time I am yearning for la vie en rose, I will surely head down to Bistro Vendome.

Bistro Vendome

French Bistro│1420 Larimer Square, 303-825-3232│$5.00-$14.50│
Dinner: Monday – Thursday 5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m., Sunday 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.,
Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
All major credit cards accepted.

Front Burner: Classic Parisian bistro dining in downtown Denver, without the downtown prices.
Back Burner: Downtown Denver parking and tourists galore.