Sunday, June 14, 2009

Il Posto

Next time I eat out, I’m going to dress up and wear a name tag. I had just come from a graduation ceremony and must have looked impressive as I entered Il Posto, the trendy Italian spot on 17th and Vine. Three staff members, including the chef, came over to my table and inquired who I was. Never mind that the restaurant is tiny and it was a Wednesday evening during a Nuggets game. I still felt important.

The meal tempo of the meal was streamlined, practically rehearsed. The gracious servers at Il Posto know what they are doing. Before I even had my water glass filled, I had a sample of a sparkling red wine. Then came bread and olive oil punctuated with black pepper. The bread was so fresh, so soft and moist, I almost sighed upon first bite.

After the initial shock of ‘perfect bread euphoria’ wore off a little, our server arrived, as if on cue, to go over the menu with us. He managed to explain the items in great detail and without any condescending comments. The menu at Il Posto changes daily and showcases only local, seasonal ingredients cooked with time honored Italian tradition, though not without a wink of whimsy from the chef. The gnocchi and pastas are even handmade only 45 minutes before service begins (something unheard of in most restaurants).

Our server was also very helpful with the wine list and after an informative description, offered a tasting of the Dolcetto ($12/glass, $40/bottle). Acidic and bright, this wine was meant to be paired with food, especially rich and creamy dishes. Because $12 is a little steep for a glass of wine, I asked to share a glass with one of my fellow diners. Either he liked my name tag or was in a good mood, because our server returned with two full glasses and charged us for one.
True to my Libran tendencies, I could not decide between the two risottos offered, so I got both. As well as the gnocchi.

The creamy risotto with cherries, stracchino cheese, and hazelnuts ($15.00) sounded intriguing, and it was. The beautiful pink rice was studded with tender Bing cherry halves and crunchy toasted hazelnuts. A little of the unfamiliar mixed with comforting risotto made the dish new again.

But the other risotto made me melt. It felt almost sinful to devour spoonful after spoonful of the al dente delicacy, but I did. The mountain Gorgonzola and baby sage infused rice coated sweet roasted cauliflower; I was tempted to lick the plate. For me this risotto (also $15.00) was the clear winner but my dining companions argued that the cherry risotto held its own just as well.

To top off the meal with a bit more carb loading, I devoured the gnocchi ($13.00). These were gnocchi any Italian Nonna would be proud of: fluffy, and tender, surrendering without any resistance to the pierce of a fork. And unlike their Italian American cousins, these gnocchi were not coated in greasy pesto sauce but in a delicate puree of cauliflower, walnut pesto, and sage.
I’m going to start coming up with all sorts of excuses to eat at Il Posto; a graduation, a Tuesday night, a rainy day, a sunny day, anything. This isn’t a subtle hint: you should too.

Il Posto
Modern Italian│2011 E. 17th Ave, 303-394-0100│$8.00-$27.00│Mon-Thurs: 5:30pm – 11:30p.m., Fri / Sat: 5:30 p.m. – 12 a.m., Sun: 5:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. All major credit cards accepted.
Front Burner: Attentive and knowledgeable service paired with inventive and well executed food.
Back Burner: Can be crowded depending on the night and parking hard to find.

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